Water box overflow

Bryce C

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I read an old thread somewhere about Hydramaster CDS water boxes overflowing when the float valve fails and it can flood the van and destroy the floor. Newer CDS 4.8 models have an overflow built in from the factory, I included a pic below.

Some have installed these themselves and plumbed it through the floor so excess water will just go out through that. But some say the overflow tube doesn't drain fast enough and water just overflows through the water box lid, or the pressure just blows the overflow off the side off the water box and it floods the van that way.

Have any of you experienced this and done a successful mod to prevent catastrophe? I'm thinking of installing an overflow with a sort of compression fitting that threads together from each side of the water box (sorry I don't know what it is called), with a larger diameter drain tube that I may have a local shop crimp together or something. So hopefully it doesn't blow the fitting off the side, and the water can drain out of the tube fast enough to keep up with the input from the garden hose...

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Dwain Ray

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I read an old thread somewhere about Hydramaster CDS water boxes overflowing when the float valve fails and it can flood the van and destroy the floor. Newer CDS 4.8 models have an overflow built in from the factory, I included a pic below.

Some have installed these themselves and plumbed it through the floor so excess water will just go out through that. But some say the overflow tube doesn't drain fast enough and water just overflows through the water box lid, or the pressure just blows the overflow off the side off the water box and it floods the van that way.

Have any of you experienced this and done a successful mod to prevent catastrophe? I'm thinking of installing an overflow with a sort of compression fitting that threads together from each side of the water box (sorry I don't know what it is called), with a larger diameter drain tube that I may have a local shop crimp together or something. So hopefully it doesn't blow the fitting off the side, and the water can drain out of the tube fast enough to keep up with the input from the garden hose...

View attachment 131986
Their called bulkhead fitting but you can find them sold as tank or water tank fittings also. As far as rotting your van floor out. I would say this i hate leaks! I check for um faithfully every 100 hours and every time in-between that i have my covers off, and repair/ replace any thing that looks like it has started/will start/ or is worn and may start leaking before the next 100 hour check. But even with that i will have catastrophic failure of components sooner or later. Its not the end of the world and won't really damage the floor of the van. Take a look at other carpet cleaning vans. Notice the condition of the floors then take a look at the equipment installed the one thing that the equipment and van will have in common is they are probably in the same condition . If you maintain your machine a leak here or there repaired in a timely manner probably won't effect your vans condition but leaks that go un checked, and allowed to remain for weeks/ months/years/ decades well they cause the structural problems. Don't get me wrong a small leak in just the right spot can and will raise Havoc on equipment and van for instance on my van Frankenstein there's a large fuse box under the driver's seat. It is off the floor so water running out the door won't be a problem but if it took a large direct hit maybe problem! A n overflow drain is not a bad idea i put one in my waterbox when i bulid the machine. And will help if the fill valve starts to leak. And because I'm (and you should be too)used to checking under the van i spot that problem by the puddle it made thus avoiding further damage. . Now that ive rambled on i recommend a ¾×½ or if space allows 1"×¾ brass or stainless bulk head fitting. You can get um on Amazon or better if you have a West Marine or similar boating supply and if possible a 90° fitting with hose barb woll make a professional installation

Screenshot_20250803_100253_Amazon Shopping.jpg Screenshot_20250803_100400_Amazon Shopping.jpg 20190908_170147.jpg
 
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Nate W.

Bryce C

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Brilliant, thanks guys. I'll order everything asap, I'll go for the larger bulkhead fitting with a 90 degree barb. Good call on the pressure regulator for the water inlet too Nate. I'll incorporate that on the install. I'll let you know how it goes once I get it installed.
 

Dwain Ray

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Nate makes a good point. I have an inlet water pressure guage on.my retractable hose reel and monitor inlet water pressure, Although because i work on wells alot i monitor more for too low of pressure than too high however if inlet water pressure exceeds 80 or so psi i add a pressure regulator to my inlet hose to be on the safe side. I got mine from an RV supply store and regulate pressure about 60 psi with it. Be mindful that as you lower the pressure with an external regulator you are also in most cases, lowering the flow simultaneously. With that said unless you're in an area with constant high pressure issues, i would consider not permanently mounting a pressure regulator in the system

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Bryce C

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Nate makes a good point. I have an inlet water pressure guage on.my retractable hose reel and monitor inlet water pressure, Although because i work on wells alot i monitor more for too low of pressure than too high however if inlet water pressure exceeds 80 or so psi i add a pressure regulator to my inlet hose to be on the safe side. I got mine from an RV supply store and regulate pressure about 60 psi with it. Be mindful that as you lower the pressure with an external regulator you are also in most cases, lowering the flow simultaneously. With that said unless you're in an area with constant high pressure issues, i would consider not permanently mounting a pressure regulator in the system

View attachment 131992 View attachment 131993

So did you just adapt the inlet pressure regulator to the 3/4 garden hose for quick and easy installation on the few jobs you need it?

For the overflow, is there any reason why I shouldn't just go with the 90° barbed bulkhead fitting in one piece? With this I'd just add rubber washers and wrench it tight. And I suppose the larger the better for flow rate to keep up with incoming water.

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Dwain Ray

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So did you just adapt the inlet pressure regulator to the 3/4 garden hose for quick and easy installation on the few jobs you need it?

For the overflow, is there any reason why I shouldn't just go with the 90° barbed bulkhead fitting in one piece? With this I'd just add rubber washers and wrench it tight. And I suppose the larger the better for flow rate to keep up with incoming water.

View attachment 132026
That's the one id go with i think you'll find that it'll come with the rubber washer
 
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Bryce C

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Sweet, thanks. What do you consider too low of pressure when you are monitoring incoming water from a home or business?

And when you see that, do you start filling your fresh water tank and use your transfer pump so you can stay ahead with their weak water supply?
 

Dwain Ray

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Sweet, thanks. What do you consider too low of pressure when you are monitoring incoming water from a home or business?

And when you see that, do you start filling your fresh water tank and use your transfer pump so you can stay ahead with their weak water supply?
My pump has a safety switch that set at 5psi below that the pump clutch disengages. So for me 15 psi or lower ill press a button on my waterpond. It'll turn on the pump while simultaneously reconfigurating my water system so as my live reel hose will disconnect from the machine and instead dump into the waterpond tank. This is accomplished by 2-12v motorized ball valves. And wheni shut the pump off the system automatically reverts back

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Bryce C

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That's pretty sweet Dwain. To make sure I understand... do you mean there is 1 fresh water connection on your setup, and it automatically switches back and forth from directly in to your water box, to directly in to fresh water tank depending on if you hit the waterpond button? Which I suppose turns on the transfer pump? Utilizing the motorized ball valves for automatic switching?
 

Dwain Ray

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My pump has a safety switch that set at 5psi below that the pump clutch disengages. So for me 15 psi or lower ill press a button on my waterpond. It'll turn on the pump while simultaneously reconfigurating my water system so as my live reel hose will disconnect from the machine and instead dump into the waterpond tank. This is accomplished by 2-12v motorized ball valves. And wheni shut the pump off the system automatically reverts back

View attachment 132028 View attachment 132030
The buttons light up red when on and blue when off . The upper button (blue in picture) is another 12v motorized ball valve but its on my waste tank. Its so my waste hose doesn't clog up with sand. I normally pump waste and rarely dump and the tank is almost 5' away from the manual dump valve so if i didnt have a valve right at the tank over time the 5'×2" hose would clog up with the sand at the bottom of the wastetank and is not only a pita to unclog but can get quite messy im th process

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Dwain Ray

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That's pretty sweet Dwain. To make sure I understand... do you mean there is 1 fresh water connection on your setup, and it automatically switches back and forth from directly in to your water box, to directly in to fresh water tank depending on if you hit the waterpond button? Which I suppose turns on the transfer pump? Utilizing the motorized ball valves for automatic switching?
Thats correct it turns on the pump and configures the systemn then when i turn the pump off it automatically switches back heres how it works the valve on the left normally allows water from the live reel to feed the machine when energized it redricts the water from the live reel to the waterpond fill. The valve on the right opens to allow the pump on the waterpond to supply water to the machine

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Bryce C

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Right-o. Makes sense, nice setup dude! Did you put 3/4" pex lines everywhere for the low pressure fresh water runs? Was that more for neat mounting and routing, or durability?
 

Dwain Ray

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That's pretty sweet Dwain. To make sure I understand... do you mean there is 1 fresh water connection on your setup, and it automatically switches back and forth from directly in to your water box, to directly in to fresh water tank depending on if you hit the waterpond button? Which I suppose turns on the transfer pump? Utilizing the motorized ball valves for automatic switching?
The only other part is a check valve with a 1/4 psi crack pressure on the hose reel line its there for the times im using the waterpond and the supply hose on the live reel isn't connected for the few seconds it takes for the system to configure water could spray outa the end of the un connected hose on the reel i originally had those 2 little rv check valves on eighter side of the tee going to the machine but the cracking pressure was around 10 psi and was way to high the big stainless one is 1/4 psi and can be lowered to .125psi but isn't necessary

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Dwain Ray

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What's that pretty pump ya got there Dwain?

View attachment 132027
It's actually a relatively inexpensive pump .its a hypro 2430bp about 550.00 new. 3.8 gpm 1725 max rpm 2750 psi They came stock on later model steamgeni machines they hold up and i have a bunch of spares and parts and the mounting bracket so i went with it when i built the machine although i might regret that decision later down the road because soon after i bought it hypro discontinued the 2300 series pumps

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